for them. Honestly in my opinion anything withing the specs should be fine regardless of the miles (KM) on the motor. remember take your ratchet on the crank shaft bolt and rotate it again in a clockwise motion until the arrow has moved another 90 degrees like this. If you have them adjusted within spec and you are still hearing a noise, its possible that the timing chain tensioner may be causing the noise. Now one at a time you can lift the coil packs out enough to un-clip the plug. Above you can see the centering part of the grommet that must completely seat into the valve cover. all the valve cover bolts, coil pack, and ground bolts/nuts are 10mm. Take the ratchet off the crank pulley, and re install the wheel. Whats Up with ERICs Car?! Vtec lobes pointing inwards towards the spark plug tube, and theoretical 2 oclock and 10 oclock. and my exhaust to .010 in. Now you can see the line on the exhaust cam gear is on top pointing upwards, and the line on the intake cam gear will be opposite pointing downward. As we all should know heat causes metal to expand, thus throwing off your measurements in the valve lash setting. be careful not to pull too hard on the coil pack harness. You shouldnt need to replace them anyway unless oil is pooling in your sparkplug tube. And as always please like, comment, share. you guessed it, same exact thing as the other three cylinders. Please also note that there are usually two ways to measure valve lash. There are marks on the timing gears, and the lobes on the cam will point a certain direction. I wanted to say that I adjusted the clearance 0.25mm on intake(0.010 inches) and 0.30mm (0.012 inches) on exhaust. Im so happy you liked the article. Int .008-.010; Exh .011-.013. now please keep in mind this is only what I came across, and might not actually be correct since this is for a USDM motor. Both of our swaps are JDM DC5 K20a swaps, with only bolt ons. like I said earlier mine is fairly new so Im not replacing mine. be careful not to pull too hard on the coil pack harness. The specification is: Install the intake manifold cover and its (2) 10mm bolts. Intake: 0.21 0.25mm (0.008 0.010 in.) Notice that I have removed all bolts, yet I have left the grommet washers on still. Its also a great opportunity to just go over each adjustment nut and make sure none are loose. Now that you have adjusted a total of 16 valves, 4 per cylinder, 2 exhaust, and 2 intake per cylinder. To adjust the valve you are going to take the feeler gauge and slide it in-between the top of the valve spring/valve and the bottom of the rock arm. you should be able to figure out how to remove those with how me showing you. (take all 4 out plugs out). Erics car alone has been across the United States a total of 4 times, and mine has seen countless hard miles on the track. Eventually, we will have gone through each Honda engine series and shown you how to do a valve adjustment on it. Now lets move to TDC on cylinder #4 (remember the firing order 1, 3, 4, 2 ) and cylinder #4 is the one closest to the transmission. Take the magnet that I told you to have handy and take each washer off with it one by one. If you do decide to replace the valve cover gasket DO NOT get an auto-zone, pep boys, orielys, ETC.., they will all leak (eventually). I have seen other people doing it like this but It will be on there pretty good, especially if youre valve cover hasnt been off your engine for 100k miles. (sticking something in the spark plug hole and watching it rise as you turn the crankshaft bolt will tell you when the piston is all the way up, but thats not necessarily TDC. Some people claim that you can use a 10mm closed end wrench and a flat head screwdriver (which is essentially what the jam nut tool is), and Im sure you could do it this way, but it keeps the frustration low throughout the whole job if you just use the correct jam nut valve adjustment tool. At this point its completely up to you if you want to get a new valve cover gasket or not. I shift the valve cover back and forth to break the seal. enough that nobody here thought it was safe to drive. You also want to make sure you clean all the old Honda bond/RTV silicone off the area where the valve cover gasket meats the head. The drag should be pretty noticeable, but the feeler gauge shouldnt actually be stuck or really hard to pull out, or put in. But in keeping with our low frustration motto, just remove the wheel and it will be so much nicer.). When re installing the gasket onto the valve cover it can only go one way, so pay attention! A valve adjustment should be done with the engine is COOL, below 100 degrees F. Realistically you should do it in the morning before you even start your car. Now you are going to remove the valve cover. As for doing one on my car Im pretty hard on it so I try to keep it in tip-top shape. plus k20 how to install. remember the cam lobes will only be pointing inward at 2 oclock and 10 oclock when that cylinder is at TDC. I advise that you go through a full cycle of each cylinder at TDC and just stick the feeler gauges into double check to make sure you are all within spec and that the resistance on the feeler gauge is similar for each valve, on each cylinder. I will leave the ratchet on there throughout the whole process of the valve adjustment because you will need to turn the engine manually with it to TDC (top dead center) for each cylinder. I know the clearance that gives the most perfomance is the closest to the minimum, but wont them get out of range resulting in a dangerous situation for the before the next adjust(120k)? Now go ahead and set your valve cover back on the head, making sure you are not pinching any lines, or wires between the valve cover and the head. This week is on K20s! Again, technically you dont need to remove them, but lets not get frustrated. Now that you know how to make each individual cylinder TDC, Im now going to show you the process of actually adjusting the valve. Thank you so much! Now we are moving to cylinder #3 (remember the firing order 1, 3, 4, 2) take your ratchet on the crank pulley and rotate it clockwise till the arrows on the cam gear moves 90 degrees and looks like this. Install the valve cover breather hose (if you have one) and oil dipstick. Take note of the lines on the cam gear and how the one on the intake cam point forwards towards the radiator, and the exhaust one (which again cant be seen because of the shock tower) point the opposite way backwards towards the fire wall. My question is about which clearance would be the best between the allowed range for both valves, as 0.008inches clearance on intake is fine in my opinion as it usually tends to go up When the engine runs kms and the time passes by. Reassembling everything. Here is how everything looks all back together. You also know the fail proof way to ensure each cylinder is at TDC by looking at the orientation on the cam lobes. Get out into the garage this weekend and give your car some TLC! Take you ratchet on the crank pulley and rotate clockwise until the arrows has moved another 90 degrees pointing downward. You could also use a plastic scraper, or interior panel remover to pry lightly between the head and valve cover. Hi Dave, thanks for reaching out. make sure that each one fits completely into the valve cover. I dont recommend replacing the sparkplug hole gaskets because they are pain in the ass to hammer in, and I usually end up destroying them. Youll also need a 19mm for the crank pulley bolt (this will be used to turn the engine manually). Its nice to hear that what Im doing is helpful. Thank you very much again and God bless you and everyone. And lastly if you want to check out the S2000 (F20C) valve adjustment DIY click the link below. millimeters (mm) or inches (in) please make sure you are not mixing up the two. Again this might be different for your k series motor please double-check the manual. Just be careful and pay attention when removing the valve cover so you dont lose any of them. i.e., plastic intake manifold cover, vacuum lines from intake to valve cover, and possibly others. Remove the 10mm ground wire bolt. (largest middle lobe). I then hold the flathead steady (not letting it rotate in either direction) as you tighten the lock nut. you can see how I take my index finger and wrap it in the towel, and go around the whole head (especially on the header side of the head since this is where most oil will leak out when the valve cover is off). I figured it would be cool to do a write-up on both the cars at the same time and sort of break up the boringness of just showing pictures of one car. Use the VTEC lobe for guidance as it is the easiest to see. (exhaust side) pointing towards theoretical 2 oclock and (intake side) will point to theoretical 10 oclock. If you decide to reuse the valve cover gasket (like I did) just make sure you pick off all the old Honda bond/RTV silicone sealant, to ensure a proper seal between the valve cover and the head. Install the ignition coil cover and its (4) 10mm bolts. as long as youre within the specs then making it on the loser side (within spec) shouldnt cause any issues. So, if you have something other than a K20a, k20z3, or k20z1 things might be a little different BUT The motions are pretty much the same, you would just need to look up specs based on your motor. Plus, if you let the engine sit all night most of the oil will drain out of the head so when you remove the valve cover it wont leak out as much. Unlike B series There are a few different style of K series. When you torque the lock nut down after you have set the clearance only torque to 14ft/lbs., be careful to not over tighten you can actually snap this relatively easy. They should all just come off with a 10mm socket. There are 4 valves per cylinder (2 exhaust and 2 intake) and there are 4 cylinders so that gives us a total of 16 valves. In this post I will be doing two valve adjustments at once. Let me quickly list the steps to actually do the valve adjustment now that you know how to set each cylinder to TDC, and how to adjust the valve. It might not be on a compression stroke. Jack the front of the car up and rest it on jack stands. Above you can see the fresh Honda bond (grey silicone) I applied. Erics car we can rebuild, we have the technology. However, I figure that you might as well adjust every valve since you have already gone to all the work to removing everything. and there are two lines on each timing gear and they will be pointing towards each other, Then the cam lobes will be point inwards towards the spark plug tube. Yes, I mentioned valve las instituciones mm. I did 0.25 on intake and 0.30 on exhaust before reading enough, resulting on a loud sound as they are too loose, at least on the exhaust ones. Simple put and detailed. Once you remove the wheel you will gain easy access to the crank pulley bolt which is a 19mm. This means Im doing maintenance in intervals of every few months rather than every few years. But as long as you make sure the lines on the cam gears are exactly opposite in the directions they point, and the cam lobes point the correct direction you cant mess this up. JUST DONT FORGET TO REMOVE IT BEFORE YOU START THE CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!! One I get to inspect them and see how the engine is running, and two removing them will help you rotate the engine around using that ratchet on the crank pulley much easier. There should be some drag on the feeler gauge, if it slides in and out easily then its too loose and you will need to adjust. If you want to search for it, it is called GASKET SET, HEAD COVER. Doing this will ensure the valve cover is centered, will seat properly, wont pinch any part of the grommet (which could cause an oil leak), and once tightened there will be even pressure all around. Make sure it doesnt fall into the head! you can see above that there is a small piece of dried Honda bond that needs to get picked off. also note the lines on the cam gears, the one you can see (intake cam gear) line is pointing upwards, and the exhaust side (which you cant see due to the shock tower being in the way) will be exact opposite point downwards. The way I usually do it is, loosen the nut then slowly turn the flat head while sliding the feeler gauge back and forth until the desired drag is on the feeler gauge. You will also notice that mine is not in a civic SI, or RSX type S. If you are doing a valve adjustment on any of those there will be more things to take off. I also have a few other tools in the picture that I used because I had to snip some zip ties and need to take my strut bar off too. Next you will carefully move the coil pack harness back towards the firewall. shifting the valve cover forward and backwards will also cause the grommets to move up the studs allowing the valve cover to shift back and forth more, youll know when its lose enough to remove. Its also worth noting the engine is mounted naturally at a lean so use the engine as the reference point for which direction the marks are pointing on the cam gears, not the actual car as reference. If your valve cover grommet and washers are old, this would be a great time to replace them. Now remove the 10mm bolts hold each coil pack to the valve cover. You are going break the front right wheel loose. I did forget to mention that you also need to remove the dipstick. (yes, thats a chip in my real spoon valve cover). I set my intake to .008 in. Notice that it only needs to be on those 4 areas, and just a little bit will suffice. As you can see from the valve terrain picture below, they are incredibly clean, and therefore why I only recommend people get their swaps from HMO. (if you dont want to jack the car up you could also just turn the wheels full lock to the right, and you could sneak a ratchet in that way. but the specs you mentioned above seem to be too loose for any Honda. Im not showing me adjusting every valve since it would be redundant. Which equates to max potential power. (be careful these can strip easily, which could cause and oil leak because you will not be able to tighten them to correct torque specs) Now using a ratchet tighten the six nuts in a star pattern (just like you would do tightening lug nuts) Tighten in a 3-step process, snugging them all down, then a bit firmer, and then The final torque spec is 7.2 ft./lbs. To do a valve adjustment you must TDC (top dead center) each cylinder and only one cylinder can be TDC at a time. Erics is at least 5 years old and Im not replacing his either. Next, I will show you how to remove them without losing them or having them fly everywhere. Removing the valve cover. Now remove the 10mm bolts hold each coil pack to the valve cover. DO NOT put Honda bond around the whole thing. Some people say that if you cant fit a .011-inch feeler gauge in the intake side, and you cant fit and .012-inch feeler gauge in the exhaust side then you dont need to adjust that individual valve. therefore, please dont use this method, you might incorrectly adjust youre valves that way), The arrow is pointed up. This weeks blog is going to be another addition to our valve adjustment series. So essentially these motors are just stock DC5 swaps with a tune, thus keeping that OEM reliability. Like I said earlier your car might have some other plastic pieces on it that mine doesnt, but Im not going to show you how to remove those. Now one at a time you can lift the coil packs out enough to un-clip the plug. remember do not over tighten the lock nuts, torque spec is 14 ft./lbs. So, real quick let me give all you new readers a backstory about our k20s. Having angled feeler gauges makes life a lot easier too. Adjustment specs are supposed to be: Intake - 0.21 to 0.25mm Exhaust - 0.28 to 0.32mm First I adjusted to the exact middle of the specs, 0.23 intake and 0.30 exhaust and it was really loud. Hello!, i have a doubt with my k24a3 when doing this work, do you think that the minimum clearance is the most correct? Heres the tools I used, but again you might need some others depending on what you must take off. A spark plug socket, long extension, ratchet, jam nut valve adjustment tool, feeler gauges, magnet, breaker bar, a rag, and some Honda bond. I only showed what each cylinder looks like at TDC for you to be able to reference. As for what lash to set yours to, I wouldnt set it to a k20 spec because its still a k24 (rod length, valve size, cam specs) any other questions dont hesitate to reach out. The most important tool you need that will allow this go easily is, the Jam nut valve adjustment tool. Inwards towards the spark plug tube theoretical 2 oclock for the exhaust side and theoretical 10 oclock for the intake side. DONT FORGET TO REMOVE THE RATCHET ON THE CRANK PULLEY BEFORE STARTING THE CAR !!!!!!!!!!!! Seen above Im trying to show the movement of sliding the feeler gauge back and forth. after a quick search on google i was able to find these specs. Install the 10mm bolts holding the cruise control cable and power steering pump bracket. Now Ill show you how to take off those washers without losing them. Remember this is TDC for Cylinder #3. again take note of the VTEC cam lobe and how they point inwards towards the spark plug tube Theoretical 2 oclock for exhaust cam, and theoretical 10 oclock for the intake cam. * pro tip is to get it as clean as possible so the valve cover gasket can completely seal allowing no oil leaks. With regular maintenance its easy to keep them long-lasting for many years to come, which brings us to the valve adjustment HOW TO. Take a clean rag and wipe away/clean all oil and debris around the head where the valve cover sits. So as you can see in the pictures above, you need adjust the 2 intake valves (specs are 0.008 0.010 in.) There are 6 total that you need to remove. (except obviously for the 4 areas with Honda bond) This will ensure the best seal. You are going to adjust by using your nifty jam nut valve adjustment tool, loosen the 10mm lock nut then use the flat head to turn clockwise to tighten to counter-clockwise to loosen the gap. I am not going to go over each valve rather just show you how to adjust a few valves. ONLY USE OEM one form HONDA. The valve cover should now just lift off. Im surprised nobody has commented to give thanks at least! Their torque spec is 8.7 ft./lbs. Once you are sure they are all seated in the valve cover properly, go ahead and put the metal washers on. This is such an amazing write up of the valve adjustment procedure! Plus, I run the tightest clearance so that the valve can be open that milli second more to allow for the maximum amount of air and fuel to be drawn in, thus producing a better combustion. We purchased them together at the same time from HMO (Honda Motors Online) about 4 years ago. At this time, I also double check that I tightened down all the lock nuts, so they dont come loose once the engine is running because if not, this would make you very angry. Im going to show you how to ensure, you are making sure, that you are correctly setting each cylinder to top dead center. Cylinder #1 is the one closet to the timing chain/gears, and cylinder #4 is closest to the transmission. Now you are going to put the rubber grommets on all six holes. Screw on the 6 nuts by hand to just get them started. Ima be the first! It would be much easier for me to give you better guidance if I could see/hear it in person, so the best thing i can do I just give you some basic guidance. Allright, I just dont wanna have any diagnose, the only thing I wanna ask or debate with you and other experts, is that if you adjust your exhaust clearance at the lower point allowed, when it passes 50 or 80.000kms your valves will be at less than that clearance because exhaust valves tend to get more tight. Starting off lets clear a few things up. Tighten the 10mm bolts for the coil packs to 8.7 ft./lbs. Usually the valve lash tolerances are much tighter, which is why I believe the ones ive supplied are more correct. Then remove the two 10mm holding the coil pack harness (yours might not be bolts, it maybe 10mm nuts on studs). Thank you so much To make life a little easier I pair a 19mm socket with a 3/4 ratchet just to make turning it a little easier. for them, Then adjust the two exhaust valves ( specs are 0.010 0.011 in.) I remove the spark plugs because for two reasons. Now that you know what markings to look for that indicate which cylinder is at TDC, and you know that the firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2. Now i am going to lower the valve clearance, but taking in mind that intake valve clearance tends to go up (in which case the valves would be OK despite of getting more clearance until 0.25), and exhaust valve clearance tends to go down, wouldnt it be the best to adjust exhaust valves to 0.28 instead of 0.25? Its actually a lot of fun for me to pull of the valve cover and do a valve adjustment and ill pretty much use any excuse to be in the garage working on a car. Sorry i cant be of more help. Im glad you found this useful, and I appreciate you taking the time to comment I love it when people interact. If you want to read any of the articles about the journey of his car, you can click on the links below. This will definitely be my reference guide as this will be my 1st time doing a k series valve lash adjustment. And the cam lobes for cylinder #4 will be pointing the same direction as the previous cylinders. i feel like this is all down to how well the engine is taken care of. The correct valve clearance for my k24a3 is 0.008-0.010 intake/ 0.010-0.012 on exhaust. Hi! I take me hands and place them like this. This is because compression wont build in the cylinder since the spark plugs are gone. I have a question, I have a K24A2 and I am running the valve seat, dual valve springs, valve retainer from a K20A Type R on both exhaust and intake side, would the specs still be 0.008/0.0010 ? Thanks for the well written info, will be adjusting my valves on my k20z3 within the next week now that I have this to reference, Thank you so much! You will want to clean the oil off these as best as possible, to ensure the best seal. Your valve cover should look like mine now. The information you provide is quite clear that provides security and excitement to perform the adjustment of the valves of my car The markings for the fourth and final cylinder, cylinder number #2 look like this. Here is the part number from Acura 12030-PNC-000, this includes new valve cover grommets, and washers too! I tried to illustrate below how the valve cover is slightly shifting front to back (thats why its a little out of focus). DO NOT take anything metal and try to pry between the valve cover and the head, you can easily scar the head where the valve cover gasket seals and this might cause there to always be a leak. If youve been keeping up with the blog at all you will have seen the articles on my brothers EG with the K20 and I figure since his car is nearing completion (again), I want to make sure his car is all within specs before I send it back out to him. Go ahead and try to freestyle, see if you can rotate the ratchet on the crank shaft a few full rotations and test yourself to see if you can guess what cylinder is at TDC. Remove wheel, this is going to gain you access to the 19mm crank shaft pulley bolt. Install the coil packs by seating them over the spark plugs and connecting the wiring harness. Next you will carefully move the coil pack harness back towards the firewall. remember do not over tighten the lock nuts, torque spec is 14 ft./lbs. You can leave the rubber grommet on though; they should stay in the valve cover as you remove it. Make sure you fully seat all six and re check to make sure they are pushed in before you even start tightening your valve cover. As you notice I dont even have a spark plug wire cover, so Im just going to jump right in to removing the 10mm nuts holding the valve cover on. Also notice how clean and dry my old gasket is, make sure yours looks like this too. Because the exhaust Valve clearance tends to tightend. Thanks for reaching out. SERIOUSLY!! if you have any questions please dont hesitate to ask, I would love to help you! Where the valve cover sits on the head should also be completely dry, and the valve cover gasket should be all the way dry. Please keep in mind its incredibly difficult to diagnose things over the internet. now lets look again at the cam lobes and see what it looks like when Cylinder #2 is TDC. Be sure to wipe the dipstick clean first. You will be doing 4 valves per cylinder (2 intake and 2 exhaust) The valve lash specs are. I could see thst when I inpected the valves st the first time, intake tends to get bigger clearance and exhaust the oppositte. I will be reusing mine since they are fairly new. Exhaust: 0.25 0.29mm (0.010 0.011 in.). Its not so common the actual valve cover gasket to leak, as long as you are re applying new Honda bond/RTV silicone sealant you shouldnt need to replace the valve cover gasket. I hope this helps you over come your fear of adjusting your own valves. But when we talk about the exhaust valves, if we adjust them to the minimum clearance allowed which is 0.010 inches, wouldnt we compromise the security of valves when they start to be more tightened(when the valves become loose they sound but they wont be hurt)? (which cant be seen because the paper pointer finger is blocking it). Its also easier to get the marks on the timing gears to line up because the compression when the engine reaches TDC wont push the piston back down slightly. (no matter what some is going to leak though), The K series engine (like most all Honda engines) has a firing order of 1, 3, 4, 2.

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